How to update your old lever toilet flush to a dual flush button?
Tools You’ll Need
You will find that FlushKING products are simple to fit without tools, however you will need to have tools ready to remove the old valve from the toilet. You will need:
- Pair of grips
- Flat head screwdriver
What product do you need?
You can check what product you need by looking at your existing cistern and identifying where the flush is currently placed.
This flush valve will fit most top push flush button cisterns. It is recognised by the fact the cistern is fitted directly to the top of the toilet pan, and has a push button on top of the cistern lid.
This flush valve will fit most lever flush cistern, and with its fleximount cable the flush button can be placed wherever the flush lever used to be. This is also the case with concealed cisterns that may be fitted inside cabinets or stud work with a button on the fascia our countertop.
If the toilet in these instructions or video does not look exactly like your toilet cistern, don't worry! The mechanics inside are all very similar.
1. The first job with any plumbing is to turn off the water supply. Hopefuly you will have an isolating valve next to your toilet cistern. If you do, use your flat head screwdriver in the slot of the isolating valve to turn it 90º to the off position. Otherwise, turn it off at the stopcock which can usually be found under the kitchen sink and looks like an old brass tap.
2. You will now need to get into your toilet cistern to remove the remaining water and the fixings holding it to the wall and to the pan. This should just be a case of lifting the lid off and placing it somewhere safe. Now that you can see inside the cistern, you will need to flush the toilet to empty it ready for working on. Pull the flush lever until as much water is released as the flush handle will allow.
3. Remove the metal link on the end of the flush lever bar that is connected to the old syphon. Now the lever is disconnected, undo the back nut holding it to the cistern and remove the lever completely from the cistern.
4. You will need to use a towel to mop up any remaining water from within the cistern to avoid making a mess and to access the screws holding the cistern onto the pan. You will now be able to see two screws at the bottom of the cistern holding it to the pan, which have a pair of wing nuts underneath the pan. Also, you should see two screws at the top of the inside of the cistern holding it to the wall. (I have suggested a flat screwdriver but these may be crosshead screws, depending on how long ago it was fitted.)
5. Now you need to remove the screws in the bottom off the cistern by placing your flat head screwdriver into the slot and turning the wingnuts under the pan to loosen. If the wingnuts are too tight, spray with WD40 and leave for a while, then use your grips to try to loosen. If this fails you will need to carefully cut off the nuts. Once you have removed the bottom two screws, remove the two remaining screws at the top, back of the cistern fixing it to the wall. Make sure to set aside all fixings as you will need them when putting it all back together.
6. Carefully lift the cistern away from the pan and lay it on the toilet seat covered with a towel to protect it. You should find a large black rubber or foam washer between the cistern and pan. If this has not perished you can reuse this but it is advisable to replace it now while you can. On the bottom of the cistern you will see a large plastic back nut which is securing your old flush valve into the cistern. This should be hand tight, but use your grips if needed to undo this nut and your old flush valve can now easily be removed. While you have the cistern off, also check the two bolts that secure the cistern to the pan are sound and fully tightened to the cistern.
7. Make sure the inside and outside of the cistern is clean around the seat of the valve as this will make sure you get a good watertight seal around the hole. Place the new FlushKING flush valve into the hole, ensuring the rubber washer is the right way up to fit the hole as it has two different sizes catered for. Once in place, and the rubber seal is between the valve and the inside of the cistern, tighten up the large backnut hand tight until you can't turn it any more. You shouldn't need to use grips as the washer will seal when hand tight.
8. Carefully lower the cistern back into place, ensuring you have replaced the black rubber or foam donut washer between the cistern and the pan. Once back in place you will need to tighten back up the two wing nuts on the bottom a little at a time to ensure an even amount of pressure is applied to the connection. You should now carefully tighten up both wingnuts with your grips. Now replace the two wall screws at the top, back of the cistern to fix it to the wall. If your bolts and wingnuts are no good, you can use FlushKING cistern fixing kit available here.
9. Make sure the flush valve is turned in the cistern to a position where it will not impeed the fill valve's float as if the float cannot move freely it will not fill correctly. You can now set the required amount of flush for your full and half flush levels, and this is crucial to get right to save the most water you can whilst removing the waste in the pan. You can adjust this as many times as you want until you are happy. Instructions on setting the flush levels are in the box with the valve, but it is a simple slider on the valve.
10. On the end of the yellow fleximount cable you will find the push button unit, and there is a white rectangular button / lever that when pressed releases the flush button from the cable. Release the button and undo the plastic back nut. Place the threaded rod on the push button through the hole where your old lever used to be on the cistern, and fix in place with the plastic back nut, ensuring it is aligned on the front as you want it before tightening fully. You can now reconnect the cable by pressing the lever again, pushing on the button and releasing the lever to lock it.
11. Now it is time to connect your water supply back to the cistern, switch on the water and check for any leaks by running your fingers over every joint you have worked on. Once you are happy all is dry and there are no leaks, test the flush unit by pressing one button, refilling and then the other button. Once you are happy everything is working well, you can replace the cistern lid and you are done.
Did you know?
The Environment Agency has developed a methodology for identifying and classifying relative levels of water stress in water company areas in England. The Government has used this map to designate areas of serious water stress for the purpose of accelerating water metering.